Mountaineering (rock)
Pic du Coup de Sabre 3699m - Le Grand Sabre et le Petit Couillon
Pic du Coup de Sabre 3699m - Le Grand Sabre et le Petit Couillon
TD 6B+>5C / 350m / South-East / 1190m of D+ from the Sélé refuge
A recent route, almost modern, equipped, in a very "Oisans sauvage" environment !
With sculpted granite and slabs of the first pitches, follows a very aerial climb on red gneiss
Abseils in the route
Pic Sans Nom 3913m - kelle route
Kelle route - South face and west ridge - 650m of difficulty for 1400m of D+
one of the summits of the Ailefroide - Pic sans nom - Pelvoux line, straddling the Selé valley and the Glacier Noir.
This route, opened in 1967, is a great line, in a wild, steep and sustained face. A jewel of the Écrins massif !
After 2 short hours of approach from the Sélé refuge, it takes us about 8 hours of ascent by a complex and clever path of pillars, slabs and ledges to reach the summit.
As often in Écrins, the descent is not to be neglected, another 4 hours of tricky roaming to reach the Pelvoux refuge
Les Rouies 3589m - face Sud
Climbing in this sector of the Ecrins range is to love the real wild mountain, alone, wide open spaces, authenticity. From Pigeonnier hut spur SE or Rebuffat route to Les Rouies 3589m is an old classic. The difficulties do not exceed 4C in climbing, but the route takes place on 800m of elevation. Descent by the normal route.
Other routes: a tone above, the ramp D + / 5B, ++ Mille Blues TD+/6B, +++ La Mafia ED/6C
Ailefroide centrale 3927m - Coste Rouge ridge
Central Ailefroide 3927 m-coste rouge ridge or North ridge is a big route wilderness and aesthetic.
the technical difficulties are not extreme, but the way is committed and requires a sense of the route if one does not want to spend the all week. the descent is a second route.
Bivouac, perched on the edge riding on the 2 sides, is memorable. Sunset on one side, lifted the other, just magic!
les Bans 3669m - Giraud route
a masterpiece on this magnificent South face of the bans!
If quotations, on paper, do not fear, do not underestimate the difficulties of this way... Rock compact is not always easy to protect, search route, length, descent, etc.
Night to the friendly shelter of bans allows us to slightly reduce the face approach
Another adventure to live in ecrins range !
Sirac 3441 m - north ridge
Sirac is the southernmost of the major summits of the massif of the Ecrins.
The beautiful North ridge without being sustained difficulty, is a logical, aesthetic route, long (1000 m) and air locations. The descent is a 'mountain' way, route finding, de-escalation, reminders, glacier, ledges, scree,...
hospitality and the framework of the vallonpierre refuge are amazing!
the top is to combine our visit to the area by a first day of climbing or crossing the Banc des aiguilles (bench of the needles), just in front of the shelter.
La Meije - 3ème Dent 3951m : Face S Directe
Wow! when the S face appears, beer at the hand, sitting on the rock above the Promontoire Refuge
Wow! in each pitch, slab, crack, groove,... nothing bad
Wow! when you arrive at the top of the 3° Dent, refuge in the distance and the void of the North slope...
Oufff! Finally, we land at the eagle's refuge. beer, food, sleep...
La Meije - 3° Dent 3951m: direct South face - direct bastion lane + original S face (chapoutot/dibona combination)
TD, difficulties 720m, about 25 pitches, up to the 5+, a 10-hour lane up to the eagle's refuge,
the modern bastion, climbing on an excellent rock,
the final part is historic, in a retro style and a last pitch that will remain engraved in your heart ;-)
Rateau 3769m - western peak - W ridge
This west Ridge is a must-have route !
It is esthetic, great atmosphere, technical, but short and one of the few accessible the day from the top of the grave / the meije cablecar (pass not included in guide price)
Adapte also to children, for a covered of the real high-mountain
glacier approach, 1 pitch in steep snow, Easy rocky terrain, a few climbing part level 3-4, an altitude peak, a crazy view, a descent in climbing and abseiling. all with a light backpack and a good snack on the way
DiBona - 3130 m. -
this pic is a perfect mountain, so she is slender and pointed. and besides, the rock is beautiful. from the refuge, the approach March to reach the tracks is of... 30 second ;-)
many climbing routes are drawn on its flanks, as for example:
- combination "way dwarfs + normal way" rating: ad -
- "visite obligatoire" 400 m, 6 a + max
- "classic South face", 450 m, 5B max (= combination madier, berthet, boell, Stoffer, 7 d'un coup)
- ...
a large number of other routes are also possible to complement a stay in the circus of the mountain. including the head of the red mullet and needles of the soreiller.
Aiguile de Sialouze 3576 m-South West face or South Ridge
Barre noire 3751 m-South pillar
Barre des Écrins 4102 m-South pillar
It is one of the best races of the Ecrins massif. the atmosphere is outstanding.
This race requires to bivouac, either on the black glacier, during the ascent. Although not extreme difficulties, climbing is sustained.
This is an outstanding route in a life of Mountaineer.
Viso 3841 m - est ridge
Needle sialouze 3576 m-South Ridge
Mont pelvoux 3943 m-tracks Rockies
Banns 3670 m-pillar Northeast and crossing
This Summit, well individualized, borders one of the largest glaciers of the massif. It presents an impressive north face mainly rocky but also driven by some reputable glacial itineraries.
in this pillar, the top 400 m, the rock is healthy, the framework is superb and the Sun arrives early in the morning. the final crossing edges and the descent of the normal route make a long run during which it must be effective.
a great classic, that we must know to perfect its culture of the Ecrins.
on this Summit:
-macho couloir, ad, snow, ice and mixed.
-East-North-East ridge, pd +, rock
- South face, Rocky roads
Bans - South buttresses 3200 m to 3400 m
Many rock routes on the South buttress, at 1 h of the refuge, as well as the longer routes and "mountain atmosphere" in front South of the banns.
between 400 and 500 m high, 5 + 6 b.
Bans 3670 m-south face
Meije 3983m - Pierre-Allain / Leininger route
Direct route to the top of Grand Pic de la Meije. Great ambiance in this 800m high face!
Difficulties are not extrem, 5++, but due to the long way, the itinerary search, the backpack weight and high altitude it is really a serious route
Advantages: Short approach from the refuge and the route rolls all day long in the sun!
Possibility to sleep at the eagle's refuge downhill, according to schedule and fatigue or to enjoy again a bit of the meije atmosphere
Pic de bure - piller desmaison - dévoluy
In the footsteps of the legend Desmaison!
twenty lengths, 600 m of sustained climbing and adventure terrain, a crazy gas, rock rather good when we stay well in the itinerary (which requires research) and the arrival on the lunar plateau
we must be effective not to end up at the frontal ...
D1- Bivouac to the car at the end of the track
D2- Start at the front to be at the attack of the track with the first rays of sun. It is necessary to cross a length of artif very physical, then the lengths are linked in the 5+/6A (1x 6b)
pic du glacier blanc 3527m - South Ridge
The south ridge of Pic du Glacier Blanc 3527m: it has everything of a great mountaineering in high mountains!
After a first "climbing" length the rest is cooler. stretched rope passages and some more difficult sections where we have to pitch. A few short rappels and a lot of rope maneuvering.
Depending on your level, it is either a beautiful achievement, or an ideal training ground.
A magnificent day guaranteed, with a breathtaking view on Glacier Blanc basin