LA MEIJE - 3ÈME DENT 3951M : FACE S DIRECTE
La Meije - 3ème Dent 3951m : Face S Directe - Bastion Central route + Original S face (Chapoutot / Dibona)
Wow! when the S face appears, beer at the hand, sitting on the rock above the Promontoire Refuge
Wow! in each pitch, slab, crack, groove,... nothing bad
Wow! when you arrive at the top of the 3° Dent, refuge in the distance and the void of the North slope...
Oufff! Finally, we land at the eagle's refuge. beer, food, sleep...
La Meije - 3° Dent 3951m: direct South face - direct bastion lane + original S face (chapoutot/dibona combination)
TD, difficulties 720m, about 25 pitches, up to the 5+, a 10-hour lane up to the eagle's refuge,
the modern bastion, climbing on an excellent rock,
the final part is historic, in a retro style and a last pitch that will remain engraved in your heart ;-)
Climbing in this sector of the Ecrins range is to love the real wild mountain, alone, wide open spaces, authenticity. From Pigeonnier hut spur SE or Rebuffat route to Les Rouies 3589m is an old classic. The difficulties do not exceed 4C in climbing, but the route takes place on 800m of elevation. Descent by the normal route.
Other routes: a tone above, the ramp D + / 5B, ++ Mille Blues TD+/6B, +++ La Mafia ED/6C
Central Ailefroide 3927 m-coste rouge ridge or North ridge is a big route wilderness and aesthetic.
the technical difficulties are not extreme, but the way is committed and requires a sense of the route if one does not want to spend the all week. the descent is a second route.
Bivouac, perched on the edge riding on the 2 sides, is memorable. Sunset on one side, lifted the other, just magic!
a masterpiece on this magnificent South face of the bans!
If quotations, on paper, do not fear, do not underestimate the difficulties of this way... Rock compact is not always easy to protect, search route, length, descent, etc.
Night to the friendly shelter of bans allows us to slightly reduce the face approach
Another adventure to live in ecrins range !