Central Ailefroide 3927 m-coste rouge ridge or North ridge is a big route wilderness and aesthetic.
the technical difficulties are not extreme, but the way is committed and requires a sense of the route if one does not want to spend the all week. the descent is a second route.
Bivouac, perched on the edge riding on the 2 sides, is memorable. Sunset on one side, lifted the other, just magic!
a masterpiece on this magnificent South face of the bans!
If quotations, on paper, do not fear, do not underestimate the difficulties of this way... Rock compact is not always easy to protect, search route, length, descent, etc.
Night to the friendly shelter of bans allows us to slightly reduce the face approach
Another adventure to live in ecrins range !
Sirac is the southernmost of the major summits of the massif of the Ecrins.
The beautiful North ridge without being sustained difficulty, is a logical, aesthetic route, long (1000 m) and air locations. The descent is a 'mountain' way, route finding, de-escalation, reminders, glacier, ledges, scree,...
hospitality and the framework of the vallonpierre refuge are amazing!
the top is to combine our visit to the area by a first day of climbing or crossing the Banc des aiguilles (bench of the needles), just in front of the shelter.
Wow! when the S face appears, beer at the hand, sitting on the rock above the Promontoire Refuge
Wow! in each pitch, slab, crack, groove,... nothing bad
Wow! when you arrive at the top of the 3° Dent, refuge in the distance and the void of the North slope...
Oufff! Finally, we land at the eagle's refuge. beer, food, sleep...
La Meije - 3° Dent 3951m: direct South face - direct bastion lane + original S face (chapoutot/dibona combination)
TD, difficulties 720m, about 25 pitches, up to the 5+, a 10-hour lane up to the eagle's refuge,
the modern bastion, climbing on an excellent rock,
the final part is historic, in a retro style and a last pitch that will remain engraved in your heart ;-)
This west Ridge is a must-have route !
It is esthetic, great atmosphere, technical, but short and one of the few accessible the day from the top of the grave / the meije cablecar.
Adapte also to children, for a covered of the real high-mountain
glacier approach, 1 pitch in steep snow, Easy rocky terrain, a few climbing part level 3-4, an altitude peak, a crazy view, a descent in climbing and abseiling. all with a light backpack and a good snack on the way
this pic is a perfect mountain, so she is slender and pointed. and besides, the rock is beautiful. from the refuge, the approach March to reach the tracks is of... 30 second ;-)
many climbing routes are drawn on its flanks, as for example:
- combination "way dwarfs + normal way" rating: ad -
- "visite obligatoire" 400 m, 6 a + max
- "classic South face", 450 m, 5B max (= combination madier, berthet, boell, Stoffer, 7 d'un coup)
a large number of other routes are also possible to complement a stay in the circus of the mountain. including the head of the red mullet and needles of the soreiller.
to do absolutely!
the rise of le Grand Pic of la meije 3983 m and crossing the ridges. This is the really important race in a life of Mountaineer. the difficulties of climbing are not extreme, but must be at ease in climbing in 4 big and ready for a long day (happiness).
There are all the ingredients of a good recipe of mountaineering: very welcoming shelters (promontoire and aigle), climbing on a great rock, a pointed Summit, reminders in the descent, an ice gully, tapered edges, a passage amazing panorama... it's my favorite in the World Mountaineering routes !
Direct route to the top of Grand Pic de la Meije. Great ambiance in this 800m high face!
Difficulties are not extrem, 5++, but due to the long way, the itinerary search, the backpack weight and high altitude it is really a serious route
Advantages: Short approach from the refuge and the route rolls all day long in the sun!
Possibility to sleep at the eagle's refuge downhill, according to schedule and fatigue or to enjoy again a bit of the meije atmosphere